My name is Akhila Pamula and I’m proud to be a Francophile. I love French food, French fashion, French wine, and the French way of life. With all that considered you’d think I’d have learned the language by now, but sadly my French is limited to daily pleasantries and ordering off a menu.
When it came time to plan our last vacation as a couple with dual income and no kids [DINKs], there was only one place I could think of: France (duh). Paris is one of my favorite cities in the world, and normally that would be my obvious choice, but Neal and I wanted to go somewhere neither of us had been. We were planning our trip for the beginning of September—right at the end of my second trimester—and with the summer crowds fading away as the sun was still shining strong, I couldn’t think of a better place to visit than the French Riviera.
The Côte d’Azur is the beautiful sun-drenched coastline that hugs the Mediterranean in the southeast corner of France. From the glamorous towns of Cannes and St Tropez to the artist enclaves in Antibes and Juan-le-pins to the medieval villages of St Paul de Vence and Èze to the perfumed lavender fields in Grasse to the wafts of lemon in Menton, there is so much to explore. There is no official border, but it is generally agreed that the western border is around St Tropez, and the eastern border is at the French-Italian border town of Menton. The easiest place to fly into is in Nice, which is approximately 28 kilometers west of Menton. Housing France’s third busiest airport, flights from within Europe are plentiful—and, in fact, there are direct flights from JFK, Newark, Atlanta, and Philadelphia. While you can get around via train or bus, if you plan on visiting multiple towns or if you don’t want to be beholden to a schedule, it is easiest to rent a car. Click here to see how we made it across the pond.
How St Tropez Returned to Its Roots
I planned this trip around two things: the fact that I wanted to spend time in St. Tropez and I wanted to stay at a specific hotel, the Maybourne Riviera. I’ll get to the latter in a bit. Ever since Brigette Bardot put it on the map, St Tropez has been the glamorous epicenter of the French Riviera—a summer playground for the rich and famous. It was once known for its excess and profligacy; a place to party on opulent yachts and glitzy beach clubs and to see and be seen. It has since transformed over the last decade to return to roots.
While there are still plenty of mega-yachts floating in the harbor, there is a more relaxed, laid-back vibe—something you would expect from an unpretentious fishing town. In 2006, a government decree ordered that everything related to beach bars and clubs, along with other businesses, had to be completely disassembled and removed at the end of the summer season in order to allow the beach to return to its natural state. This meant that even structures had to be dismantled. In 2019, it went a step further, requiring rebuilds to be done with sustainable materials. As a result, many long-running and iconic favorites closed their doors. What replaced them was a new type of glamor, reading more barefoot than stilettos.
While the beaches of St Tropez are what put it on the map, the town itself is incredibly charming. The cobblestoned streets are lined with cafes and restaurants that are great for people-watching. I’d be remiss if I didn’t also mention the notable shopping.
In the Heart of it All
We stayed at the Hotel de Paris-St Tropez, which is a ‘30s era hotel in the heart of the old town. The hotel itself has an interesting history: it opened to immediate success with some of the preeminent artists and scholars of the day taking up residence. After liberation from the Nazis, it once again became the hub of Hollywood glamor and the epicenter for nightlife and partying. It had fallen into disrepair for 20 years after shutting down in the early ‘90s when it was bought and rebuilt into a luxury boutique hotel. I chose this hotel because the location is fantastic—it’s a stone’s throw away from the marina and the cobblestoned streets of old town are just outside its front doors. I was also able to get a decent price by booking through AMEX Platinum’s Fine Hotels and Resorts (FHR). We didn’t know it at the time but we happened to be visiting during Sail Grand Prix, an international sailing competition; so hotels, which are already pricey, were even more expensive and already sold out in some cases.
We stayed in a Classic Room, which was quaint without feeling dated and cozy without feeling cramped. Breakfast was included with FHR, so we started our day with an amazing cappuccino, eggs to order, and pastries in the hotel’s courtyard. St Tropez’s only rooftop venue, Les Toits Lounge Bar, was the perfect place to enjoy the sunset with a cocktail (or mocktail). With FHR, we received a $125 hotel credit that made it taste that much better.
Perhaps my favorite feature of the hotel was their concierge team. I had emailed them a few months before our trip to discuss everything from shopping to dinner. They provided plenty of ideas and resources, including pricing, for different excursions and talked me down from unrealistic plans. (I guess renting a mega-yacht for the day is really expensive 🤷🏽♀️.)They were also very helpful in securing and confirming dinner reservations.
The Royal Treatment
After spending three lovely days wandering through quaint, bougainvillea-filled streets and alleyways, sipping on St Tropez spritzes at Senequier while yacht-watching, and basking in the warm Mediterranean sun, it was time to head east towards the resort I had my eye on for years: the Maybourne Riviera.
Located atop the cliffs of the sleepy village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, the 67-room resort designed by legendary architect Jean-Michel Willmotte is a modern jewel. Carved into the rocky cliffs overlooking Monaco, Italy, France, and the Mediterranean, the resort offers jaw-dropping views from virtually every angle. As we drove A8 from St Tropez, our first glimpses were an angular, modern piece of art cantilevering off the cliff. We pulled our “fancy” rented Peugeot (haha) into a small U-shaped driveway lined with Lamborghinis and Ferraris. The valets didn’t bat an eyelash or make us feel less-than, but rather escorted us graciously and enthusiastically into the lobby where the double-height windows gave way to spectacular views of the Mediterranean. They managed our luggage while we checked-in—which was a seamless process—and then escorted us to our Grand Sea View Room.
I’ve been lucky enough to stay at many amazing hotels, but this room took my breath away. When I opened the solid wood door, my eyes went straight towards the horizon; it was hard to tell what was indoor or outdoor with a wall of sliding glass separating the two realities. I walked straight past the table that held a miniature chocolate cake and bottle of nonalcoholic champagne and onto our private terrace that projected out over the corniche to yield a dazzling view of Monaco to the west, an arresting panorama of Italy to the east, and a breathtaking vista of the Mediterranean straight ahead.
After I was able to lift my jaw off the ground I could finally appreciate the rest of the space. It was well-decorated without feeling fussy and modern without feeling cold. Wood tones were mixed with whites and azure, giving it a clean but warm feel. The terrace was large enough to accommodate two loungers and a cafe table where we shamelessly called in room service on a daily basis. Despite being so exposed, it felt incredibly private; you couldn’t see into anyone else’s balcony even if you tried. Back in the room, the oversized bed was incredibly comfortable—and I’m speaking as someone who was 27 weeks pregnant at the time. A separate make-up vanity and closet led into the oversized bathroom where a large stand-alone soaking tub was flanked by a water closet and separate shower. Aside from when the doors were closed, you always had a view of the sea.
While I could have easily spent all my time on our private terrace, the rest of the property was definitely worth exploring. The hotel infinity pool is an influencer’s dream; it’s hard to tell where it ends and the sea begins. The coral loungers offer the perfect place to relax and read while taking in the view and the aroma of truffles coming from La Piscine, Jean-George Vongerichten’s casual eatery that serves up woodfired pizzas.
If the pool isn’t your vibe, you can hitch a ride down to the coast in one of the hotel’s bespoke open-top Biminis to Maybourne La Plage, the property’s beach club at the tip of Cap Martin. Open just for the summer season, it offers a more playful side to a modern experience, with rattan furniture and cheerful orange loungers dotting the rocky coastline. The hotel’s concierge team went above and beyond for us, opening the club at dawn for us to take maternity photos (shoutout to Claire Wise for making us look good!).
As you build up an appetite from basking in the sun, you can nosh on seasonal dishes by three- Michelin star chef Mauro Colagreco while enjoying a chilled beverage. If you want a more formal dining experience, Colagreco opened Ceto, a seafood-focused Michelin-starred grill on the rooftop which offers, if you can imagine, even more spectacular views of Monaco and the Mediterranean below.
Scenes Worth Leaving Your Hotel For
The beauty of a property like this is you don’t need to leave; from the spa to the plage to the three delicious onsite restaurants to two fabulous bars, there is plenty to keep you occupied. However, the Maybourne is in a perfect location to explore some of the beautiful smaller towns of the Riviera. The perched medieval town of Èze is a short 20-minute commute, and while you can drive straight up to its gates, we parked at sea level and hiked Chemin de Nietzsche, a rocky 3.1-mile trail with 1300 feet of elevation gain that leads you straight into the charming village, offering sweeping views of the Mediterranean along the way. Eze has also become an Instagram darling, so to avoid the sea of tourists, go before noon to enjoy the narrow cobble-stoned streets and baroque architecture without being smacked in the head by a selfie stick.
Menton is 20 minutes the other direction and the last town before crossing over into Italy. The pastel-colored village has a special atmosphere, the sienna and tawny facades hosting a multitude of stores and restaurants that glow in the mediterranean sun. The narrow paved streets snake through the old quarter, punctuated with numerous staircases and countless gardens. The Basilica of St Michael is an impressive baroque church that offers beautiful views of the sea below. Colagreco’s famed three Michelin star restaurant, Mirazur, landed the number one spot at the World 50 Best Restaurant awards in 2019 and is worth a visit. Warm and inviting, it is a far cry from the stuffy, white-tabled Michelin restaurants of years past. The food is innovative and imaginative, and the backdrop of lush gardens and the sun dipping behind the cerulean horizon creates a magical ambiance.
Waking up our last morning, my mood matched the blue of the sea below. It wasn’t just that we had an incredible experience at the Maybourne and an amazing week on the French Riviera, it was the full realization that life as we knew it was going to change. In a few short months, we would be parents, Mom and Dad to a little human. Life would no longer just be about the two of us, and it scared me. As I sipped on my cappuccino (full caf, thank you very much), I felt a little guilty mourning that life. But I also knew that this would be the start of a new adventure, perhaps the greatest one of all. So, I just sat there on the terrace, enjoying a buttery croissant and taking in the view. Pastries make everything better.
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