Neal and I have been lucky to explore the world as much as we have, yet there is one place that we cannot get enough of: San Sebastián, Spain. From our first trip there in 2016, there is an inexplicable force, a siren’s call that keeps bringing us back. It was a no-brainer that Jai would join us.
This trip was actually pretty spontaneous and last-minute; we were helping a group of friends plan their trip to Basque Country and kind of sort of invited ourselves. This was going to be our first real test with Jai: taking him across multiple time zones, and on a red-eye long haul flight to boot. Trial by fire, right?
So what is our deal with the Basque coast? Simply put, it is our happy place. From the majestic rolling hills to the craggy flysch cliffs to the peacock blue sea, the setting itself is incredibly stunning. Every small town has its own personality, with the crown jewel, in my opinion, being San Sebastián. Donostia, as it is called in Basque, was at one point the summer residence of Queen Maria Cristina during the Belle Époque era. The Bay of La Concha is home to one of the most beautiful white sand beaches in Europe and is lined with a promenade that is skirted by ornate white railings that have since become a symbol of the city. Historic beachside villas and glamorous boutique hotels harken back to this glamorous past. There is also the surfer-favorite Zurriola beach and the golden Ondarreta beach that is more relaxed but just as beautiful. It has one of the highest number of Michelin stars per capita, and the pintxos bars in the old town hold their own, with delicious creations that rival some of the best restaurants in the world. You can be as posh or as casual, as outdoorsy or as loungy, as active or as relaxed as you want to be here. This joie de vivre perspective is sewn into the very fabric of the city.
There is no shortage of places to stay in San Sebastián, but every single time we come back, we stay at Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra. Overlooking La Concha beach with the old town to the right and the promenade to the left, you simply cannot be more perfectly located. A relic of Belle Époque, this regal white hotel has been welcoming guests for over 150 years; if only those walls could talk. You are greeted by a marble lobby that I adorned with ornate chandeliers and detailed crown molding. It flows directly into a mahogany-walled sitting room and stately bar with nautical oil paintings on the walls and numerous model ships displayed artfully throughout. The view of La Concha draws you in, with tables in front of the windows reserved specifically for hotel guests.
When it was just Neal and me, we would always book an ocean-view room; while not particularly large, these rooms had a comfortable bed, a decent bathroom, and had a small balcony with a beautiful view of the beach. I had always wanted to stay on the top floor; I could only imagine the view from there. When we traveled with Jai, I knew we would need a bigger space just to accommodate the three of us; it was my excuse to upgrade. We stayed in one of the penthouse suites. Perched on the 7th floor, they vary in both size of the room and terraces. Our room, 711, was unique in that while the indoor space wasn’t the largest of the suites, it had a wraparound balcony that not only essentially doubled the living space, but offered arguably the best views of San Sebastian. The view of La Concha was omnipresent, and the glitter of Old Town and the rumble of the sea was always there to welcome you. The comfortable bedding, welcoming pastel colors, and generous marble bathroom were also a nice touch. While I normally bring my own toiletries, they did have a boutique brand called SSirimiri. These bath products were a collaboration between Benegas Perfumery, a fourth local generation producer, and the hotel. With a subtle fresh fragrance, it was pleasant and not overpowering.
We were nervous about Jai’s jetlag, having hopped several hours ahead. Thankfully, it worked in our favor; he would sleep in until anywhere from 10-11am, and his loose bedtime would be around 10-11pm. In San Sebastian, this is perfect; it’s a sleepy beach town in the morning, allowing for the quintessential hours-long Spanish lunch experience, followed by a siesta to rest your belly for the pintxos bar crawl in the late evening.
I could dedicate a whole novel to my favorite places to eat in Basque Country, but I’ll keep it short and to the point. You can have any dining experience you want, from casual pintxos bars to three-star Michelin dining. This time around, we went back to one of our all-time favorite restaurants: Asador Extebarri. Located in the lush foothills approximately 40 minutes outside of San Sebastián, this restaurant celebrates local bounty, with everything being grilled to perfection by Chef Victor Arguinzoniz. Humble ingredients like beets and prawns meet flame and smoke, elevating them to something truly special. The wine list is nothing to sneeze at either. Don’t ask how we were able to get a reservation for such a large group; one of our friends just had crazy good luck. It is notoriously frustrating to even hear back from them after placing a reservation request months ahead of time, but I promise it’s worth it. And because they only have one lunch seating a day, the table is yours for as long as you want, allowing you to enjoy your meal at whatever pace you choose. Jai took a long nap mid-meal and woke up just in time for the smoked ice cream.
Other notable lunches we had were at Elkano, a seafood-celebrating restaurant in the charming seaside town of Getaria, and at Amelia, a hip Japanese-inspired modern restaurant just off the promenade in San Sebastián.
Because these lunches were hours long, the idea of sitting through another long meal for dinner didn’t sound appetizing or even possible. The perfect solution is what San Sebastián is known for: the pintxos. Smaller than tapas found in other parts of Spain, these bites are the heart of Basque Country food culture. The winding cobblestones streets of Old Town are lined with bars and tavernas, each with alluring pintxos on the bartops. Our favorites include Ganbara (classic with an overwhelming selection), Txepetxa (the best anchovies–don’t knock it til you try it), Paco Bueno (get the fried shrimp), La Cepa (jamón jamón jamón), and Bar Sport (probably my favorite gilda). Bar Nestor is also another classic not to miss. They cook a steak perfectly; they show you a plate of raw meat for you to choose from, and they take care of the rest. If you’re really motivated, wait in line an hour before opening to try to reserve a slice of one of the best tortillas you will ever have.
San Sebastian, to me, represents everything that makes life worth living. So grab a bite, toast with a glass of vino tinto, cidre, or vermut, and enjoy la vida loca. Topa!
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