Mexico City has it all: with countless parks and public squares, wide pedestrian boulevards, unique and eclectic neighborhoods, and a rich dining scene, there’s truly something for everyone in this megapolis. Neal and I had been to Mexico City, also known as CDMX, multiple times before having Jai and had fallen in love with the city; it was a no-brainer to bring him with us.
There is a common misconception that CDMX is dangerous; we definitely got many looks when we talked about bringing Jai with us. I’ll be honest: I feel as safe in CDMX as I do in most American cities. Sure, there are some sketch parts, but it’s no different than being in any other big city. Just do your research and know which neighborhoods are safe. Gang and cartel-related violent crime rarely targets visitors in CDMX, and if they do occur, it is in areas that tourists don’t frequent anyway. It also has one of the highest police officers per capita in the world, and as a result, violent crime is rare in the tourist-friendly areas. Pickpocketing and petty theft are as common as in any other tourist city, so use your common sense. There are many safe, walkable, fun, beautiful neighborhoods to explore.
We have stayed in many neighborhoods in CDMX: Polanco is sleek and posh, with both high-end shopping and high rises surrounding el Bosque de Chapultepec, which literally translates into “forest”, and is one of the largest urban parks in Latin America. Roma Norte is bohemian and hip, with a cool dining scene, eclectic boutiques, and beautiful architecture. Coyocan is yet another vibrant artsy neighborhood, with its cobblestoned streets, delicious market, and vibrant artwork being a fitting backdrop for the story of Frida Kahlo. Centro Historico is the historic center of CDMX, and here, you see a living version of how the city came to be: the cathedral of the Spanish conquistadors constructed literally on top of the Aztec Templo Mayor. There are some amazing museums here, and you can see the beautiful murals of Diego Rivera and other urban artwork and architecture surrounding the Plaza de la Constitucion, the largest main square in all of Latin America. For this trip, we stayed in La Condesa. With its wide, tree-lined avenues and shaded pedestrian paths, this neighborhood is sandwiched in between Parque España and Parque México. There is no shortage of trendy wine bars and bistros, hipster coffee spots and cocktail bars, and casual taquerias.
In terms of accommodations, there are tons of places to choose from. There are plenty of large-brand international hotels along with smaller boutique properties. Airbnb is also a popular option. We chose to stay at Casa Cleo, a property that is part of the Viadora group, a smaller boutique brand in CDMX. This 11-room property is nestled on a quiet tree-lined street in the heart of Condesa. While this area of CDMX is very safe, they still take security seriously; to even get access to the hotel entrance, you have to either swipe your key card or call the guard. Once you enter, you are met by a beautiful mural and charming courtyard that beckons you towards the arched doorway that leads to reception and the rooms. The architecture is a mix of modern and bohemian, contemporary yet cozy.
We stayed in the Montaño Suite, an over 1000 square foot space that is divided into two main areas. When you walk in, you enter a kitchenette and dining area that is somehow still equipped with a full-sized fridge and dishwasher. This was clutch when it came to storing baby food and for washing bottles and other baby paraphernalia. This area led into a sitting area that we turned into Jai’s bedroom. A door separated this room from the main bedroom which was tastefully decorated in neutral relaxing colors with lighting that gave it an upscale feel. The bathroom was the size of some hotel rooms in Europe, with a generous marble double sink, large walk- in shower, and a beautiful stand-alone tub. Keeping with the higher-end feel, they provided plush robes and Ritual products. Perhaps the best part, however, was the outdoor space. Both rooms led out to the spacious terrace that had 2 separate seating and dining areas with whispering fountains and hanging foliage, your own private outdoor oasis in the city. When Jai would take a nap, it was a perfect place to relax.
In the last few years, CDMX has become a foodie Mecca. From street tacos to many Michelin-starred restaurants to now a street taco stand with a Michelin star, you can really eat well, and can do so at every price point and in any setting. We had our share of delicious street tacos, but it’s still nice to go out to a nice dinner, especially in a city like this one. One of our close friends owns a Michelin-starred restaurant, and Jai has come with us a few times, but at that time he was just a lump that slept a lot (albeit a very cute lump). CDMX was the first time we ventured out to dine at nice restaurants with a now very vocal 8 month old. Neal and I had already been to the much-revered Michelin-starred Pujol and Quintonil. We wanted to do something a little more low key but still unique and delicious. Contramar is a CDMX stalwart known for its incredible tostadas and seafood. The service is old-school, with white-aproned waiters that run that dining room like a well-oiled machine. Gaba is a fun, hip wine bar in Condesa with moody lighting and an eclectic wine list, focusing on using indigenous ingredients in a modern way. Meroma is also making waves in the CDMX dining scene, in Roma Norte, with lush greenery framing a farm-to-table cuisine.
How did we get through 3 long meals with Jai? To be honest, I think it really depends on the kid. Ours loves being around other people and loves flirting with the ladies. The restaurant environment actually works out well because there is so much going on, he ends up being super entertained. But you can’t blame the kid; at some point, people watching does get boring, so it’s important to have backups. These toy straps and placemat are great; when he decided to throw the now boring toy, it didn’t hit the ground. Not having teeth yet was also a hindrance to what he could try; sauces could only go so far. We brought pouches and teether crackers along with his formula for him to be able to snack on with us.
In between the eating and the napping, CDMX is a great place to wander. You can get lost in the art deco architecture in Condesa, enjoy the urban art in Roma Norte, admire the ancient ruins in Centro Historico, and traipse through dozens of different world-class museums. You can even enjoy just being outside in nature. From the local parks that seem to be around every corner to the city’s own Central Park, el Bosque de Chapultepec, you almost forget that you are in the middle of a city that is the home of almost 10 million people. Jai was too young to truly take advantage of the ubiquitous kid’s play areas and structures, but I’m excited for him to get to play in the near future.
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